The Comedogenic Scale Explained

What is the comedogenic scale?

So glad you asked! In a nut shell, the comedogenic scale is a rating system from 0 to 5 that tells us how likely an ingredient (like a natural oil or butter) is to clog pores and lead to comedones + acne. A rating of 0 means an oil is non-comedogenic → it’s not likely to clog your pores at all. While a rating of 5 means it has a high probability of causing pore blockage Basically, the higher the number, the greater the chance the ingredient could trigger breakouts:

0 – Won’t clog pores: Little to no chance of causing comedones or acne.

1 – Very low chance: Unlikely to clog pores for most people.

2 – Moderately low: Might clog pores for some acne-prone or sensitive individuals, but generally considered safe.

3 – Moderate: Could go either way. Some people might break out, others won’t. Use with caution if you tend to get acne.

4 – Fairly high: If you’re acne-prone it's quite likely to congest pores and cause pimples.

5 – High: Almost a sure ticket to clogged pores and breakouts for most people. Yikes!

Scientific Origins of The Comedogenic Scale:

The number in the scale (0-5) come from scientific testing, originally done by applying ingredients to rabbit ears in laboratory studies. Uhg, I know! Poor rabbits.

If an ingredient caused a lot of clogging in the rabbit’s follicles it earned a higher comedogenic score. Conversely, if its follicles stayed clear, it got a low score. Dermatologists helped popularize this scale back in the 1970s and 1980s to help steer the boom in acne centric skincare.

This test was a useful starting point since rabbits’ ears are much more sensitive than human skin (meaning they’ll clog up more easily). An ingredient that massively clogged rabbit pores might clog human pores too.

Why does this matter? Knowing the comedogenic rating of the skincare oil or product you're using can help predict whether it’s likely to cause pimples. For example, using straight coconut oil (rating 4) is notorious for causing breakouts in acne-prone individuals, whereas hemp seed oil (rating 0 and the star of our Renew Cleansing Oil) is generally safe and unlikely to cause pimples.

*Keep an eye out for our upcoming content where we’ll be debunking common coconut oil skincare myths and explaining why we choose to use it in just a select few of our products (and why it doesn’t make the cut for most of our products).

The comedogenic scale just helps to give a quick and science based reference when choosing skincare products. if you see mostly 0-2 ingredients, chances are it will be friendly to acne-prone skin! If a face butter is loaded with 3s, 4s and 5s, then someone with oily, congestion-prone skin might want to just pass on that skincare product.

Friendly tip: Don’t panic if you spot a higher-rated ingredient in your product. The scale isn’t a strict law... everyone’s skin is different! And while some higher comedogenic oils and butters can clog pores when used on their own, they can also be masterfully blended with the right ingredients to create formulas that actually support the skin. We’ll be diving deeper into this in our upcoming content all about coconut oil!

For example: Coconut oil, by itself, isn’t ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. It’s definitely not something we’d recommend slathering on straight. But when it’s used as a supporting ingredient in a well-balanced formula, crafted by a formulator who knows their stuff, it can offer real benefits without causing congestion (we don't use coconut oil in any formulations meant for the entire face... find out more why this is in our upcoming content! Stay tuned).

How Does the Comedogenic Scale Work?

When we say an oil is “comedogenic,” it literally just means it tends to form comedones, which are the basic form acne. A comedone can be an open clogged pore (blackhead) or a closed clogged pore (whitehead). If bacteria gets involved, that clogged pore can turn into an inflamed pimple. Ouch. I've definitely been there. So, an oil’s comedogenic rating is basically rating how easily it could create those clogs in the skin.

Oils that spread easily and absorb well tend to be less comedogenic, whereas those that sit on the surface and harden can block pores more. The rating also considered an oil’s chemical composition and concentration in products.

For instance, if pure ingredients were tested at full strength, an oil might cause clogs when 100% pure, but if it’s heavily diluted in a lotion, it might not cause any issues and work in harmony with other ingredients for skin benefits! This is why you might see a range like “1-2” for some oils. Different studies or preparations gave slightly different results depending on the oil. For instance, some say tallow (beef fat) is a 2 on the comedogenic scale, while others give it a 4-5 because it's very occlusive in natural.

In practical terms, here’s what each number means for your skincare choices:

0-1 (Non-Comedogenic): These oils are the "safest" in terms of not clogging pores. They virtually never clog pores If you have acne-prone or sensitive skin. oils rated 0-1 are great choices. Hemp seed oil is a 0 and a star of our Renew Cleansing Oil. Raw shea butter (& Nilotica butter) is a main ingredient in our Blue Tansy HA Moisturizer, Glow Balm, Baby & Mom Balm, Repair Cream + more because it's extremely low comedogenic and so nourishing, so all skin types can benefit from it.
2 (Slightly Comedogenic): Still a low-risk for many people, but if you’re extremely prone to acne you should definitely patch-test first. Oils rated 2 might cause a pimple in a small amount of users, but most will be just fine. Think of jojoba oil. We formulate this oil into our Renew Cleansing Oil because of how synergistically it works with the other ingredients. Again, knowing how and what oils to formulate together makes a difference here. Oils like Jojoba are gentle and loved by many, but a small percentage of people might find it a tiny bit clogging.
3 (Moderately Comedogenic): Okay, Now we’re in caution territory. A 3 doesn’t guarantee you’ll break out, but the likelihood is higher. Avocado oil or olive oil often fall around 2-3 & some people with dry skin can use them with no issues, but those prone to congestion might see some clogged pores. If you use a 3-rated oil, pay attention to how your skin reacts. It could be fine as a wash-off product (like part of a cleanser for example or formulated with other oils and herbs to reach a certain skincare goal)

4-5 (Highly Comedogenic): These are almost guaranteed to clog some pores when used straight on. Oils and butters rated 4 or 5 have a high probability of causing breakouts when used on their own.
Examples are coconut oil, cocoa butter, and palm oil. All contain wonderfully nourishing compounds, but the risk is they're known to block pores on their own. If you’re breakout-prone, it’s usually best to avoid putting these on your face. Interestingly, some of these ingredients (like coconut oil) are fabulous for body skin or hair, just not always for facial skin if you get acne easily.

Remember, the comedogenic scale isn’t absolute truth for everyone. It’s a helpful rule of thumb, however. Skin type matters too: Oily or combination skin with larger pores are typically more prone to clogs, so a high-rated oil could be trouble for those skin types.

Dry or mature skin (like mine! Dry skin girly here) might handle a 3-rated oil just fine, or might even need that heavier moisture. I can attest to this!

Main point is always listen to your own skin. If your friend swears by a 0-rated oil like argan but you still get pimples, that’s okay... your skin just has its unique preferences!

So... Why Do Some Oils Clog Pores?

Good question! It all comes down to an oil’s structure and what it’s made of. Here’s a breakdown of the main reasons some oils are more likely to clog pores than others (and why some are totally safe for acne-prone skin):

1. Molecular Size
Think of it like this → the bigger the oil molecules, the more likely they are to block your pores. Some oils (like palm oil or coconut oil) have larger, heavier molecules that can sit on top of the skin and trap dead skin cells and bacteria underneath. Hello, acne! Meanwhile, lighter oils (like red raspberry seed oil which is in all of our moisturizers) have super small molecules that absorb easily and don’t sit on top of the skin.

2. Fatty Acid Breakdown (Oleic vs. Linoleic)
Most oils are made up of a mix of fatty acids and two of the big ones are oleic acid and linoleic acid. You may have heard of these already. But basically...

Oleic acid is rich, thick, and very nourishing, but too much of it can make an oil feel heavy and pore-clogging. Think olive oil or avocado oil.
Linoleic acid is much lighter, more fluid, and actually helps thin out your skin’s natural oils so they don’t clog as easily. Oils like hemp seed (Renew Cleansing Oil) & sea buckthorn oil (Awake Coffee Serum) are high in linoleic acid and generally way better for breakout-prone skin.

3. Fun Fact: Acne-Prone Skin Is Often Low in Linoleic Acid
Studies have shown that people with acne tend to be low in linoleic acid naturally. That makes their skin oils thicker and stickier which makes their skin more likely to clog pores. Using oils that are high in linoleic acid may actually help rebalance things and keep skin clearer. Again, this is why we love oil cleansing with the Renew Cleansing Oil for acne prone skin!

4. Saturation (how solid or liquid the oil is)
Highly saturated oils like cocoa butter are thick and solid at room temp. That’s usually a sign they’ll sit heavier on the skin and may cause clogs. But, polyunsaturated oils (like hemp or flaxseed) are liquidy, light, and more skin-friendly because they absorb alot more easily.

5. Other Stuff in the Oil
Some oils contain natural waxes or fatty alcohols that can affect how they behave on your skin. For example, jojoba oil isn’t technically an oil! It’s a wax ester that mimics our own sebum. Because of that, your skin thinks it already made enough oil and chills out on the overproduction. Pretty cool, right? Jojoba is often safe for acne-prone skin even though it has a comedogenic rating of 2 because of how well it balances things out.

Basically,

Lightweight oils = usually safer and rated lower on scale
Oils high in linoleic acid = great for acne-prone skin
Oils high in oleic acid or saturated fats = use with caution
Always patch-test—because everyone’s skin is a little different!

Top Oils & Butters SBA Uses + Their Ratings

Raw Shea Butter – 0
Nilotica Butter – 0
Hemp Seed Oil – 0
Sea Buckthorn Oil – 1
Camellia Seed Oil – 1
Tamanu Oil – 2
Castor Oil – 1
Jojoba Oil – 2
Rosehip Seed Oil – 1
Argan Oil – 0
Frankincense Essential Oil – 1
Carrot Seed Oil – 2
Australian Sandalwood Essential Oil – 1
Helichrysum Essential Oil – 1
Calendula Herbal Oil – 1
Lavender Essential Oil – 1
Clary Sage Essential Oil – 1
Tea Tree Essential Oil – 1
Lemongrass Essential Oil – 2
Aloe Vera – 0
Chamomile Herbal Oil – 1
Unrefined Shea Butter – 0
Raspberry Seed Oil – 0
Pumpkin Seed Oil – 2
Emulsifying Wax – 2
Cold Pressed Jojoba Oil – 2
Orange Essential Oil – 2
Babassu Oil – 1
Non-nano Zinc Oxide – 0
Beeswax – 2
Blackberry Seed Oil – 1
Mango Butter – 2
Olive Oil Herbal Infusion (Lavender Flower, St. John’s Wort, Marshmallow Root) – 2

As you can see, the star ingredients in our full-face products don’t go above a 2 on the comedogenic scale. That means our formulas are generally low to non-comedogenic. They're carefully and intentionally crafted to support your skin without clogging your pores, no matter your skin type.

You might notice that coconut oil (rated a 4) shows up as a main ingredient in one of our products (Clarifying Cleanser)... but trust us, we have our reasons! We’ll be sharing all the details (and the science) in our upcoming content all about coconut oil specifically. Stay tuned! Also, the way that coconut oil is formulated into our Clarifying Cleanser makes it low-comedogenic - science is amazing!

If you take anything from this, let it be that the comedogenic scale is a general guide, but always listen to your skin: If an oil is rated 2 but still breaks you out, don’t force it! Conversely, if an oil is rated 4 but your skin loves it (a rare but possible case), you may be an exception. Your personal experience matters most!

We also caution you to consider oil blends carefully. A product might contain a wonderful 0-rated oil, but if it also includes a couple of 4-rated ingredients high up in the list, it could still clog pores... Look at the overall formulation and ask the formulator questions about the blend. Many skincare products labeled “non-comedogenic” are formulated to exclude high-rating ingredients entirely.

Here to help,

Brier.